Archive

October 2007

Departures 10/2007 Cover
Features
Borscht and Beyond
Moscow on Fire
Reggie Nadelson reports from the red-hot center.
Sunday at the Banya
Russia's steam baths are part social club and part purification ritual. During his time in Moscow, Steven Lee Myers became a true believer.
The Departures Q&A: What I Saw at the Revolution
Editor in chief of The New Yorker David Remnick served as a Moscow correspondent for The Washington Post from 1988 to 1991. His book Lenin's Tomb: The Last Days of the Soviet Empire is, in our opinion, still the most complete, readable, and entertaining—yes, entertaining—account of Russia's transformation from communism to open society.
The Wild, Wild East
The eerie beauty of Russia's Kamchatka Peninsula gives travelers a dozen ways to contemplate nature untrammeled. For C. J. Chivers, it's salmon fishing in the resplendent Kol River.
Dispatch
A Correspondent's Farewell
Food
On the Komm
Out There
Next Stop, the 2014 Olympics
Style
From Russia With Style
Travel
Intrepid Traveler: Mother Volga
For Russian-born Artemy Toroitsky, a boat trip on Russia's longest river combines culture, history, geography, and, if properly planned, luxury and comfort as well.
Intrepid Traveler: Trans-Siberian Express
The storied train underwent a recent facelift and is again carrying passengers through the expansive, untouched Russian steppe. Euan Ferguson rides the rails.
Smart Guide #1 Tbilisi
In the heart of Caucasia, between the Black and Caspian seas, sits the color-drenched capital of Georgia. Peter Savodnik
Smart Guide #2 Baku
Azerbaijan's economy is one of the most accelerated on the planet right now, and its capital offers Caspian views and modern hotels.
Smart Guide #3 Tallinn
Less than two decades after Estonia gained independence, its capital is a modern-day boomtown with a burgeoning art scene.
Taking the Kids
Despite daunting inconveniences, such as winter temperatures of 13 degrees below zero, Steven Lee Myers finds that his daughters made the most of their travels in Russia.
Russia 2007
Russia 2007 Moscow Fashion Week: On the Front Row
Russia 2007: A Portrait of the Dictator as a Young Man
Russia 2007: A Practical Guide to the Mysterious Russian Soul
Russia 2007: Blog Watch
Russia 2007: Brain Waves
Russia 2007: Czars and Stripes
Russia 2007: Do They Really Have a Sense of Humor? Go Figure.
Russia 2007: Dr. Spock in Translation
Russia 2007: Give Their Regards to Broadway
Russia 2007: How to Marry an Oligarch
Russia 2007: Is This the Shape of the New Moscow?
Russia 2007: Ladies' Day in Dachaland
Russia 2007: Material World
Russia 2007: My Revolutionary Spirit
Russia 2007: Network Realtiy
Russia 2007: New Fiction
Russia 2007: Paid in Persimmons
Russia 2007: Parallel Universe
Russia 2007: Pop Playlist
Russia 2007: Ruble, Ruble,Toil and Trouble
America's former Cold War enemy has thrown off the shackles of communism and entered a new era of billionaires, su­­per­models, jailed oligarchs, and polonium assassi­nations. What's behind it all? An econ­omy in overdrive. Tyler Cowen, a professor of economics at George Mason University, explains the basics.
Russia 2007: Science After the Party
Russia 2007: Tarantino Mania
Russia 2007: They've Gotta Have It!
Russia 2007: Triple Hits
Russia 2007: Up Close and Personal
Oligarchs! Socialites! Petrodollars! Cosmonauts! Sixteen years after the fall of communism, the country is still in the middle of a radical transformation.
Russia 2007: We're Off to See the Gulag
Russia 2007: With a Little Help from My Comrades
Russia 2007: Your Own Private Moscow
Black Book
2007: A Space Odyssey
A Cathedral's Second Coming
A Drink with a View
A Factory-Made Sensation
A Semi-Grand Affair
Artist to Watch
Astoria Grand
At the Mariinsky
Blini Blitz
Bolshevik Chic
Boutique
Breakfast at Tiffany's
Catherine’s Fun House
The palace was Catherine’s pleasure dome, where she and her paramour Grigory Orlov could entertain friends, play cards, and enjoy the White Nights.
Comrades in Art
Dinner as Theater
Five Galleries
Food for the Thoughtful
For Men Only
Going Underground
Gourmet to Go
Grand Hotel Europe
Hermitage 101
How to Buy a Sable
Imperial China
Insider’s Guide to the Kremlin
Ladies Who Lunch
Lunch at the Vogue Café?
Market Watch
Mastering the Art of Borscht Lite
Reggie Nadelson discovers the art of making borscht in the middle of Moscow.
Metro-sthetics
Modern Love
Name That Monument
Novodel
On the Petrograd Side
Palace Intrigue
Pavlovsk Palace
Playing the Markets
Primas-in-Training
Renegade Art
Respublika at 3 a.m.
Restoran Matters
Royal Estates
Russki Luxe
Shall We Dance?
Solving the Antiques Ban
Soviet Verite
Taleon Imperial
The Ararat Park Hyatt
The Exhibitionists
The First Lady of Photography
The Golden Ring
The Only Fashion Name You'll Need
The Scene
The most sought-after reservations in town and the people who are getting them
Those Magnificent Malls
Tracking the Egg Man
Understatement
Your Own Private St. Petersburg