Archive

October 2004

Departures 10/2004 Cover
All That Glitters
Cameo Appearance
The ancient art of the cameo is newly fashionable, thanks in part to a dynasty of Italian carvers and designers on the outskirts of Naples.
By Design
Made in Milan—This Year
No matter what the label appears on, it's a guarantee of style. Deyan Sudjic examines sofas, chandeliers, fountain pens—and how the city became the capital of design.
Culture Watch
Clash of the Titans
Who was the greater Baroque artist, Bernini or Borromini? The question remains very much alive in Rome's Piazza Navona.
Dress Code
Color Me Pucci
When Emilio Pucci set pattern to print, he called on memories of waves crashing along the shore at Capri and brightly colored flags flying at the Palio. Is it any wonder, asks Josh Patner, his signature fashions now speak Italian for the world?
Food
Cucina Italiana Now
Where lies the future of Italian gastronomy? Pavia Rosati tracks the debate between old and new, tradition and innovation, at restaurants throughout the country.
Sport
Skiing Cortina
One of Europe's most fabled resorts, Cortina d'Ampezzo, 80 miles from Venice, is not on the radar of most American skiers. Chiara Ferragamo on why it should be.
Travel
Amalfi's Next Wave
A new generation of hoteliers is making a difference.
On the Tuscan Riviera
She spent the summers of her childhood cruising these waters. Now Priscilla Rattazzi returns for a family vacation, Agnelli-style.
Syracuse: The Cognoscenti's Guide
This ancient port in Sicily's deep south has always been a little rough around the edges—the perfect combination of refined and unmistakably real.
Wine & Spirits
The Grape Crusaders
Sitting down to a nice Chianti once meant drinking cheap wine from a wicker bottle. A small group of stylish Italian vintners put the past to rest and gave Chianti the respect—and look—it deserves.
Black Book
Beyond Florence
Tuscany
Beyond Naples
The Amalfi Coast, Procida and Sorrento
Beyond Rome
Ponza and the countryside
Beyond Venice
Padua and the Veneto's northeast
Black Book: Beyond Milan
The Lakes district and three day trips
Florence
Bespoke tailors, perfect panini, and Tuscan gardens
Milan
Fashion, blues and new spas
Naples
Pizza, caffè shakerato and edgy art
Rome
Best guides, top hotels, and the Cinecitta
Venice
Gelato, handmade paper and a private palazzo